Cotes d'Armor

Cotes d'Armor extends from the centre of Brittany to the northern coast. In the east it borders with Finistère with it's heaths and moorland, and to the west with Ille-et-Vilaine. Along the coast from east to west are part of the Côte d'Émeraude, famous for the deep green of the sea, the 'wild coast', and the Côte du Granit Rose with sandy beaches and great tumbles of pink granite rock, sculpted by the wind into strange shapes. The name Cotes d'Amor is derived from times past, when Bretons described coastal Brittany asl'Ar Mor' the country of the sea', and the inland region of forests as l'Ar Coat, 'the country of the woods'. If you buy or rent a property here you will have access to a huge range of activities as well as being able to enjoy the countryside and coast. Properties on the coast itself tend to be higher priced, but wherever you are in Brittany you are not very far from the sea. The département is divided into four arrondissements: Lannion, Guingamp, Saint-Brieuc, and Dinan, and the Côtes d'Armor capital is St Brieuc, on the coast.

Inland are the rolling hills, deep-set country lanes, and woodlands of central Brittany, a rural landscape reminiscent of much that has been lost in Britain to industrial farming and urbanisation. The département's southern half is crossed by the Montagnes Noires that run west to east and form the watershed divide between northward flowing rivers, that empty into the Channel, and the rivers that run to the south to the Bay of Biscay.

Interesting activities in Cotes D'Armor, as in other parts of Brittany, are too numerous to list, but include golf, walking and cycling, sailing and inland boating, riding, and plenty of places to visit such as museums for traditional local crafts and industries, leisure centres, and a wealth of buildings of historic interest including churches and chapels. The Nantes-Brest canal meanders through some of inland Cotes d'Armor. Not all of it is navigable, but the towpath is a marvellous route for walkers and cyclists to follow through country-side, villages and towns such as Loudeac, Mur de Bretagne, Gouarec and through Finistere to Carhaix and the River Aulne. There is a map of the route on the holidayboat site - see the link to the left, where there are other transport maps from the Côtes d'Armor tourism website.

Around the coast

The Goëlo Coast (Coast of Brightness)

This is the name of the coast on the western side of the bay of St Brieuc, between Binic and the Pointe de l’Arcouest. It is characterised by a wild rugged coastline with cliffs, complemented by the many picturesque seaside resorts and good, sandy beaches. Way-marked paths stretch right along the coast from St Brieuc north to Paimpol and beyond. The most notable is the GR34, which at times becomes known as the excise mens' route, from the days when customs men used to patrol it in search of smugglers. Try this walk for
Special attractions in the area include Pointe de Guilben, Abbey of Beau-Fort, Chapelle of Perros-Hamon, Tower of Kerroch, and the Moulin de Craca. Off the coast, amongst other islands, is Les Sept Îles, 40 hectares of natural habitat for coastal life and birds such as seals and puffins. Also well-known are the attractions of the Ile de Bréhat, actually two islands, very different from each other, with a bridge linking them. From June to September, the steam train runs from Paimpol to Pontrieux all along the Trieux, a small tidal river.

Saint-Brieuc

Saint-Brieuc, the capital of the Département of Côtes-d'Armor, is on the north coast of Brittany, west of St Malo. It lies between the Gouët River and the Gouëdic River, close to Saint-Brieuc Bay. It is a busy industrial and market town that was named after St. Briocus, a 5th century Welsh monk who was active in the area. Worth visiting is the Cathédral de Saint-Étienne, originally built over 200 years from the 13th to 15th centuries, but rebuilt later. The old town features picturesque architecture, including 15th/16th century half timbered and corbelled houses. Vantage points on the boulevards bordering the ravines give views of activities at the fishing port, Le Léguéth. There are museums, a weekly market, fairs and other events. The area around offers interesting walks and, of course, beaches. The SNCF trains between Paris and Brest stop here, and there are buses to local holiday resorts and other destinations.

Paimpol

45 km north-west of Saint Brieuc via route D7. This small town by the north coast with it's busy fishing port and yachting harbour is well placed for visiting the nearby lovely small beaches of Brehec, the seashores of Pors Pinand, and the whole 13 km of wild coast. Around the fishing port are narrow, winding streets, lined with old timbered houses. Activities include tennis and a lido, scuba diving, kayaking, lessons at a sailing school, and sailing. For walkers there is footpath GR34, with its outstanding panoramas on the footpath. The Tuesday market is known for it's oysters and fish.

Plouha

The highest cliffs in Brittany are here, a Maritime history museum, and Bonaparte Beach, from which Allied airmen shot down in Brittany were evacuated during WW2. The area offers fine beaches, and cliff-top paths with panoramic views. Gwin Zégal nearby is one of the last anchorages in Europe where the boats tie up to wooden posts.

Ploubazlanec

About 3 km north of Paimpol; - from here the ferry takes visitors to the famous Iles de Bréhat. Boat trips from Plubazlanec and other nearby locations offer Breton music or sea-fishing, or tours around the islands and archipelago.

Saint-Quay Portrieux

This seaside resort and fishing port is the landing port for Coquilles St Jacques (scallops). There are fish auctions, and an annual scallop festival. Nearby, to the north, is the beautiful beach of Le Palus Plage, which changes colour with the tides and becomes almost black, due to the black ilmenite crystals in the sand.Some of the best beaches in Côtes d'Armor are in this area, such as Chatelet, Casino and Countess beach.

Côte du Granit Rose

This famous Brittany coast features beautiful rugged pink granite rocks, sculpted by wind and water into strange and wonderful shapes. A tale tells of fairies called the Margot-la-Fee who lived in amongst these rocks, raising their children and looking after herds of fairy cattle and sheep, If you asked them politely for bread or wool or milk, they might give you some, but they tended to avoid people.

The Goëlo coast

Inland towns and villages

Lannion

Lannion (pop. about 15,000) is the second main town of Cotes d'Armor, and has both airport and railway station. It is situated on the inner end of the estuary of the River Leguer, which meets the sea on the Cote de Granit Rose. The old town features narrow streets running down to the river, lined with picturesque restored mediaeval houses. The Thursday market is one of the best in the region, and there is a daily fish market in the Halle aux Poissons in Place du Miroir, every morning Tuesday to Saturday. North west of Lannion towards the coast is the Planétarium de Bretagne: http://www.planetarium-bretagne.fr/acces_horaires.htm

Tréguier

An attractive town 16 kms east of Lannion on the Jaudy river, with a harbour. The cathedral, St Tugdual, houses the tomb of St Yves who was a lawyer and priest (died about 1303). At Minihy-Treguier are a chapel and stature dedicated to the saint, and an annual 'pardon' that is apparently attended by lawyers in particular. The town was also the birthplace of Ernest Renan, writer and philosopher. Pontrieux This pleasant small town lies half way between Lannion and St Brieuc, north of Guingamp, on the Trieux river. Rail from Paris via Guingamp, nearest airports Lannion or St Brieuc. There is a marina, with a pub on a schooner. Ideal for boating enthusiasts, lovely countryside around, and not far from the sea. Tregor and Goelo - the area around the Jaudy and the Trieux estuaries on the north coast. The website has a map and lots of useful links. Listen to the Breton music of Loar Gann (Full Moon), from the Tregur area.

Guingamp

Guingamp lies inland south west of St Brieuc on route E50 (which leads to Morlaix). This is an attractive university town with plenty of cultural activity, nightlife and bars. The old town has some medieval walls remaining with narrow streets of shops inside, and part of a 15th century castle remains.Winding through the town is the River Trieux. There are two festivals - 'Gouel ar Bugale Vreizh' takes place in July, with a candle lit night procession and bonfires, and a traditional dance festival performed by children. In August the Féte de la Saint Loup brings a week of Breton music and dance to the town. Small towns/villages in the area include Bourbric and Plouagat. TGV trains to Paris from here. About 1 hour drive from Roscoff (74km); Brest is 104km (just over an hour on Route E50); St Malo 116km (about one and a half hours drive).

Le Faouét

The village of Le Faouët lies in the beautiful wooded valley of the River Elle, between Callac and Belle-Isle-en Terre. It is famed for it's 16thC timber-framed market hall with a beautiful bell-tower. The river, with it's wild tumbles of rocks, has signposted walks, and is good for fishing. The town has a large supermarket, a lot of restaurants. 40 minutes drive to the coast from here. Photos on the Breize culture website. Callac A market town of about 3,000 inhabitants. Railway station. Medical centre, dentist. Market day is Wednesday. Supermarkets, banks, petrol station, cafes and restaurants, creperie, newsagent with foreign newspapers (including English). Post office, railway station, chemist. other shops. A botanical garden is located in the town. Nature trails, fishing and canoeing lakes, woodlands and beautiful countryside. 30 minutes away is Armoriparc (open in the summer) at Begard has plenty of activities for all, swimming pool with long winding chute, trampoline, bowling, restaurants, and more. Guingamp: about 19km (motorway; trains to Paris) Roscoff: Just under an hour (75km); St Malo: 1 1/2 hours